Mountain climbers from all over the world go to the Zoldo Dolomites for the opportunities it offers climbers of all abilities. The Zoldo mountains offer a view of majestic Pelmo peak and the great Civetta massif, the reign of the sixth degree where the story of Dolomite mountain climbing was born. The Moiazza massif, the elegant Spiz di Mezzodi and the imperious sides of Bosconero, however, are no less impressive.
There are good opportunities for cable climbers: on the Moiazza, the cabled Costatini climb, one of the most challenging in the Dolomites; on Civetta you can find the cabled Alleghesi climb and the cabled Tissi climb takes you to the Torrani refuge at an altitude of 3,000 metres
Via Ferrata Tissi
Maximum altitude: 2984m
- Church of Zoldo Alto (1252 m), state 347, a few kilometers downstream of the Passo Duran;
- Palafavera (1507 m), state 251, a few miles north of the Pecol Zoldo Alto
- Listolade (683 m), State 203, north of Agordo.
Support points: the Coldai Sonino Refuge, Refuge Vazzoler .
Levels: from Refuge Vazzoler to Refuge Torrani 1300 m.
Depending on the chosen starting point, we follow different paths, but then fill the path n.558 to the Van Sasse, where is the attack of the Ferrata Tissi.
Go up, then, the north-eastern part where the new track made with 500 meters of fixed ropes and anchors 160.This route follows the old path opened by John Franco Angelini and Vienna in 1931.
The technical difficulties are considerable, since the rise also includes vertical jump. The Tissi ends once you reach the Refuge Torrani, but you can continue along the normal path that leads to the summit of the Civetta.For the descent from Refuge Torrani, follow the normal route of Piovanel, down to the foot of the rocks on the eastern side.
Via ferrata Alleghesi
Maximum altitude: 3220 m
Difficulty: hard, long, mountaineering
Departure: Palafavera (1507 m), the SS 251, Pecol Zoldo Alto and South Fork Staulanza
Support points: the Refuge Adolfo Sonino Coldai (2132 m).
Travel time: 8-9 hours, including five hours for the strike.
Notes: Alleghesi is a classical in the Dolomites. The itinerary, as well as technical difficulties, is of great commitment for the length and the altitude.
From refuge Sonino al Coldai follow for a few meters the path 560 then take the left fork Coldai on the path Tivan, the attack is about 1.30 hours after the fork Schenal del Bech. The cabled route runs along the eastern side of the Civetta. Initially climbing with the help of some wire ropes to get to a vertical wall surmountable through the stairs located on the rock jump
Following clear red marks, initially keeping to the left, climbing walls and grooves for up to half of the spur of Punta Civetta with passages of the first and second grade that are not equipped. Between chimneys and walls to get to small fork between a boss and Punta Civetta. Through the path back to Punta Tissi (2992 m) continuing on the ridge, partly equipped, you gain the summit (3220 m)..
From the summit descend to Rifugio Torrani excellent starting point for those who face the crossing of the massif along the two vie Ferrate, for those who get the normal route and also for climbers who have attempted the ascent of the Northwest.
Descent: From the top, following the recommendations descend on the eastern side until Torrani Refuge (2984 m). From here the descent continues well signposted along the normal route of the original “Piovanèl” path partially equipped not be underestimated especially in snow and fog. Alternatively you can go down to the Ferrata Tissi a demanding course that requires good training.
Ferrata Gianni Costantini
Maximum altitude: 2740 m
Departure: Bruto Carestiato Refuge (1834 m), easily accessible from Passo Duran.
Support points: Passo Duran (1601 m).
The attack of the Ferrata is just few minutes from the Carestiato Refuge; after a short crossing to the left, above a suspended bridge, the climb takes you from mountain pine slabs and smooth.
The first part of the climb (a few tens of meters) is one of the most technically challenging of the ferrata. After that, the wall tilts and can reach quite easily the key part of Costantini, a journey that winds upward to the left on a yellow wall overhanging, secured only by cable. Passed this step, you can reach the top of the Pala del Belia. Climbing further, we meet a new section quite challenging, after which the difficulties decreased slightly up to the Cresta della Masenade (2740 m).
From here down to the north, you can stop the strike. The Costantini, however, continue northwest towards the South Moiazza to begin one of the most characteristic of Costantini’s journey across the ledges Angelini, who leads the Alto Van delle Nevere and the Ghedini camp (2600 m).
Now the via ferrata bends down along the western shore of the Cantoni Valley to meet the track 554, which goes to the Refuge Carestiato. Make a stop at Rifugio Passo Duran where you can enjoy the genuine taste of traditional dishes such as “Fajtas montanara”. The refuge also offers shelter in comfortable rooms. All accommodations in a very cozy!